E-text prepared by Carlo Traverso, Lois Gaudard, and Project Gutenberg
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Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees
[Illustration: MAP OF THE PYRENEES
(To accompany "TWIXT FRANCE & SPAIN")
With the Principal Peaks, Rivers & Roads.]
Trains and steamers—Bordeaux and its hotels—Lamothe—Morcenx—Dax—Puyoo—Orthez—First impressions of Pau—The hotels andpensions—Amusements—Pension Colbert—Making up parties for thePyrenees—The Place Royale and the view—The castle of Pau and itsapproaches—Origin of name—Historical notes—The towers—Visitinghours—The tapestries—The wonderful bedstead—The delusivetortoiseshell cradle—The "Tour de la Monnaie"—The park—The Billèresplains—Tennis and golf—The Route de Billères and the Billèreswoods—French sportsmen—Hunting—Racing—Lescar and its oldcathedral—Fontaine de Marnières—The bands—The Parc Beaumont—Ballooning—The Casino—Polo—The cemetery—The churches ofSt. Martin and St. Jacques—The "old world and the new"—Rides anddrives—to Bétharram—The start—Peasants and their ways—Vinestrained by the roadside—Sour grapes—The "March of the Men of Garlic"—Coarraze—Henry IV.'s Castle—Bétharram—The ivied bridge—Theinn—The "Via Crucis"—Assat and Gélos—The Coteaux—Perpignaa—Sketching with a donkey-cart—Over the Coteaux to Gan—Thedrive to Piétat—Picnicking and rejected attentions—Thechurch—Feather moss—Bizanos—Carnival time—"Poor Pillicoddy"—"Idyllic Colbert."
Backward spring—Hôtel Beau Séjour—Effect of the war of '70 on theEnglish colony—The "Coustous"—The Church of St. Vincent—Géruzet'smarble works—Donkeys—Up the Monné—Bains de Santé—Bains de GrandPré—Salut Avenue and baths—"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"—Luncheon—Daffodils—Thesummit and the view—The "Castel-Mouly"—The Tapére—Mde. Cottin—MontBédat—Gentians—The Croix de Manse—"The Lady's Farewell to herAsinine Steed"—Market-day—The old iron and shoe dealers—Sunday—Acat fight—The English Church—To the Col d'Aspin—"The Abbé'sSong"—Baudéan—Campan, its people and church—Wayside chapels—Ste.Marie—The route to Gripp, &c.—Payole—The pine forest—The Cold'Aspin—The view from the Monné Rouge—"The Plaint of the Weather-beatenPine"—The Menu at Payole—Hurrah for the milk!—Departures—Divinemusic—Asté—Gabrielle d'Estrelle—The ivied ruins—The church—Pitton de Tournefort—Gerde—The pigeon traps—The cattle market—The Jacobin tower—Theatre—Grand Etablissement des Thermes—Hospice Civil—Eglise des Carmes—Mount Olivet—Madame Cheval,her cakes and tea—Bigorre in tears
The journey to Tarbes—The Buffet and the Nigger—Lourdes station inthe wet—Importunate "Cochers"—Hôtel des Pyrénées—"Red tape" andPorters—Lourdes in sunshine—Sightseeing—The "Rue de la Grotte"—"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"—Candle-sellers—TheGrotto—Abject reverence—The Church—Saint Bernard—Interior ofchurch—The panorama—Admirable effect—Rue du Fort—The castle—Theview from the Tower—Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels
Road v. rail—Scenes, sublime and ridiculous—Hôteld'